Hi Neil,
First photo shows some of the many different motor mounts made today, from my step mounts to the very light European light F2D mounts. My mounts can be used for Fast and speed limit, the long mounts with the slots in them were originally designed for AMA Slow combat but can be cut back for speed limit use.
Photo 2- The mounts that I sell are made from 60/61/T6 which is a good material for drilling or reshaping plus polishing to a chrome like finish. The mounts have a 1/16 step in them so you can use them with a variety of engines, turn the step out for big block engines, turn in for 25s and 32s. You will note that there is only motor mount holes which are slightly oversized for trimming your thrustline (equal inside and outside turns); the actual mounting holes can be drilled for whatever type of airplane you are building.
Photo 3- This shows the variety of engines that can be used with the step mounts, on the left big case engines and on the right small case engines.
Photo 4- Is wingtip weights for foam wings, if you know someone in the automotive or truck repair business, have them save burnt out wheel bearings or rear end bearings (the tapered roller type). You have to break the bearing out of their cages and of course degrease them, depending on their size you will use 1 to 3 for 3/4 oz. tipweight. Use a tapered reamer, make holes in you wingtip, fill with epoxy and push the bearings in so they are just below the end of the tip (say a 1/16) and fill with epoxy, now you're ready for your wingtip. This can also be done at the field by cutting a round hole in the balsa tip (with a piece of sharpened brass tubing) ream the foam, install extra weight and replace the piece of wood while the epoxy is still wet.
Photo 5- The best way I've found to mount a tank with everything clean and free of oil, use Scotch brand Foam Mounting Tape (can be found in any office supply store). This tape not only holds the tank in place but also dampens the vibration; next tighten down with 2 wire ties (could use rubber bands but they are messy and not dependable). This should keep your tank from sliding forward in the advent of a sudden stop, this system also works very well on profile stunt models.
Photo 6 and 7- Here's a neat tool, a wire tie gun, it pulls tight and cuts the wire tie off; the gun is completely adjustable for tightness, this way you can use it not only for mounting fuel tanks I also use it with small ties to make bladders. This gun can be found in electrical supply stores and they also make a small plastic type that you have to control the tension and cut the excess, of course you can use 2 pairs of pliers to pull the wire tie but it's easy to overdue it.
